30 Minutes at Pokaran

During my recent 12-day sojourn in Rajasthan and Gujarat, I travelled extensively by train; almost 3300 kms and spending 4 nights in railway coaches. I used the train to go from Mumbai to Jaipur, from Jaipur to Jaisalmer, from Jaislamer to Bikaner, from Bikaner to Jodhpur, from Jodhpur to Ahmedabad and from Ahmedabad to Mumbai. It brought back fond childhood memories when my parents took me and my sister on long train journeys to visit our grandparents.

Indian Railways is infuriatingly chaotic and filthy, yet utterly fascinating. The chaos is only superficial; scratch the surface and you will find in place a robust system that is often efficient and effective.

While this is not a newfound love, the six train journeys telescoped into 12 days made me look at railways with a childish delight. And one fine morning enroute to Jaisalmer, all my enchantment and fascination with railways came to a boil for 30 minutes at Pokaran station. 

 

Yes, it is the same Pokaran where our nuclear test was carried out in 1974. I was hoping that there would be a signboard proclaiming this historic event, but was disappointed. Some others were similarly disappointed at finding a nondescript platform and station building.  

 

 

Pokaran is not a junction; yet the train halts here for as long as 30 minutes because there is a reversal of direction. And coupling of the new engine evinces considerable curiosity. 

  

Railway platforms in India are a huge waiting arena. Some people know what they are waiting for; others have nowhere to go, but still wait. And where else but in Rajasthan will you find such colours?

 

  

And finally this mystery lady

What is she talking with the engine driver?


Look carefully around her left shoulder and you will have the answer