In Retrospect – 2017 : PART1

When we reflect on the year gone by, we think about books read, movies and plays watched, friendships made and renewed, projects accomplished, and places visited. It is this last one, our travel experiences, that we like to cherish most in our memory. In 2017, I travelled far less than what I had planned to do considering that I had much time on my hand. But when I sit down to write this introspection, the overall feeling is not one of regret, but quite satisfaction. I realise that my travel, however limited, has provided some intense experiences. So here are ten memorable moments of 2017 from my travel.

1    1)   Kamal Basadi, Belgaum

This exquisitely polished early 13^th C Chalukya-style structure lies deep within the walls of Belgaum Fort and gets its name from the lotus carving inside the dome, the petals featuring 24 Jain Thirthankaras. As I stepped out of this small but beautiful Jain temple, the camera slung around my neck, an army man arrived in a bike and confronted me for taking photographs. There were no notices prohibiting photography. He informed me that there is one right at the entrance to the Fort. I offered to delete the photos, but he threatened to confiscate my camera and took me on the bike to meet his superior. Obviously, he was throwing his weight around. Fortunately for me, the senior didn’t share the zeal of the junior and waved me away with some words that we are in a sensitive area. Back at the hotel, I realised that I still had some pictures in my phone. Internet is awash with hundreds of pictures of Kamal Basadi, so I see no harm in adding some more to this story.

2    2)   Ramasseri Idli, Palakkad

    These are unlike any other idlis. Only a dozen odd families in the village of Ramasseri possess the secret recipe of producing these idlis that are bigger, flatter and softer than the conventional idlis. I had read about them in a magazine some years ago and It was a stroke of providence that it surfaced from the deeper recesses of memory when I was visiting our family deity in Palakkad. Google Maps helped me locate Shankar Vilas, one of the two shops that serve Ramasseri Idlis in the village located on the Palakkad – Pollachi Road.  Jeevanandan, who owns the place, prepared a fresh batch of steaming hot idlis for us. Rarely do people come to his shop to eat. And the ones who come are those who have read about it and travelled far in its quest. That made me feel special.

3    3)   Pandian Temple, Tranquebar

Not many would have heard of Tranquebar. It is a tiny village 100 kms south of Pondicherry, that was colonised by Denmark in early 17^th C. It was here that Protestantism arrived in India in 1706. After walking about through the Danish Fort, we rested our tired legs on the craggy shore, in front of this enchanting Shiva temple dating back to 13^th C. Built by Maravarman Kulashekara Pandian, the deity in the temple is known as Masilamani Nathar. It reminded me of the shore temple at Mahabalipuram. What a coincidence that it was the day of Thiruvathira, a festival associated deeply with Shiva. We waited patiently for the full moon to rise over Bay of Bengal, listening to the rhythmic rise and fall of the tide.

4    4)   Gokak Mills, Gokak

Gokak Falls was a huge disappointment, despite visiting during the peak monsoon. I trained my enthusiasm and camera on the magnificent brick-red façade of Gokak Textile Mills, established in 1887. I believe the machinery in the mill is still partly driven by the hydroelectric power generated at the foot of Gokak Falls. Built in 1907 this is one of the oldest hydroelectric power plant of India. Some locals raised my hope of being allowed inside the mill, but it was firmly quashed by a stern-faced security guard and I had to be content with discount shopping at the factory outlet. Disappointments are integral to travel and we need a sound coping mechanism.

5    5)   Kathakali Make-up, Kochi

Even during normal times, Fort Kochi has a picture-postcard charm with the Chinese fishing nets, wharfs and warehouses, historic churches and quaint cafes. But during the Biennale it acquires an altogether new vibrancy. Among the myriad art installations and live performances, I was particularly enthralled by this demonstration of the Kathakali dancer donning his make-up. The hall was teeming with foreign tourists. I had to match its intensity and precision through my camera focus and shutter.