Nuts and Bolts of Almaty

 

A good friend, after reading all my posts on Kazakhstan, suggested that I include some “nuts and bolts” information for the aspiring traveller. So here’s a practical guide to Almaty.

Getting Around

The city centre is about 30 minutes from the airport. Almaty is compact — most attractions lie within a 3 km square grid of tree-lined boulevards and right-angled streets, making it almost impossible to get lost. The traffic is disciplined, and drivers are respectful. Pedestrian signals appear at intervals of about 100 metres. Broad boulevards, leafy parks, and fountains at every turn make Almaty a delight to explore on foot — a city that feels distinctly European in spirit.

For those whose legs protest too much, there are plenty of alternatives. Buses are frequent, including the photogenic trolley buses, though stops can get crowded during rush hours. The Metro, with just one line and eleven stations, offers an economical and efficient option. The flat fare is 120 Tenge (₹20), signage and announcements are in English, and trains run about every 15 minutes. I travelled extensively during non-rush hours — never overcrowded, though rarely with a vacant seat. Do note that most attractions still require a fair bit of walking from the nearest station.

For those who prefer not to walk, the app-based cab service Yandex is reliable and inexpensive, with fares starting at 500 Tenge (₹85).

Electric scooters are everywhere, with QR-based payments. I noticed that it’s mostly young men who ride them — not a single young woman. Many boulevards have dedicated lanes for scooters, and watching locals glide past is a glimpse of Almaty’s youthful energy.

 

Eating Out

A sit-down meal at one of the many restaurants along the avenues costs upwards of 5000 Tenge (₹850) without alcohol. A pint of draught beer is about 1000 Tenge (₹160). Dishes are almost always meat-based. The national dish, Beshbarmak, is traditionally made with horse meat.

Vegetarians may struggle — expect to make do with lentil or pumpkin soups, baursak (fried pastry), sautéed aubergines, and greens. There are quite a few Indian restaurants, but I didn’t try them; eating Indian food abroad isn’t my idea of travelling.

(My tip: eat breakfast like a king and manage the rest of the day with fruits, nuts, and desserts.)

Yoghurt was surprisingly hard to find outside supermarkets. At the supermarket, a 500 ml can of local beer costs about 250 Tenge (₹40). On the sidewalks, a cappuccino is around 1000 Tenge (₹160), and a scoop of ice cream about 700 Tenge (₹120).

 

General Life

Kazakhstan is officially an Islamic country, yet Almaty feels strikingly secular. There are no calls to prayer, no visible minarets, and few women in hijab. The only concession, perhaps, is modest dressing all around.

Almaty’s population is about 2.2 million — barely a tenth of Mumbai’s — yet rush-hour traffic can feel just as congested. Our guide explained that most families own not one but three vehicles: one for city use, another for weekend mountain trips, and a third for long drives to Astana, where nearly everyone seems to have a relative. With petrol at 240 Tenge (₹40) a litre — almost the same price as bottled water — car ownership is easy to understand.

English is not widely spoken, though it is taught as a third language in schools after Kazakh and Russian. Kazakh, written in Cyrillic script with a few additional characters, dominates public signage. English signs are still relatively rare.

In short, Almaty is clean, calm, and courteous — a city that welcomes walkers and rewards curiosity.