Spirituality
and mysticism meet history and geology at the Marble Mountain complex. Located
just 20 minutes from Da Nang airport, it is a heady blend of the ancient and
the modern.
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| Marble Mountain Cluster |
The
Marble Mountains are a cluster of five hills named after metal, wood, water,
fire and earth – the five elements that constitute the fundamental framework of
East Asian philosophy. The water mountain (Thủy Sơn) is at the centre and is the
home to Buddhist shrines of deep spiritual significance and exceptional beauty.
This is the only mountain that can be accessed by visitors, which can be either
through climbing about 150 steps or riding a sleek 40-metre-tall glass elevator
that provides panoramic views during the ascent.
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Stairway to Nirvana
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Getting
out of the elevator, a seven-storeyed grey tower replete with Buddhist motifs
greets the visitor. The seven levels represent the steps to enlightenment
signalling that the pilgrimage has begun in earnest.  |
Seven Steps to Enlightenment
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There are 150 or so more steps
to climb to reach the terrace where the shrines await. The first sanctuary is
Hoa Nghiem Cave, where a serene statue of Quan Am (the Bodhisattva of
Compassion) is carved directly into a niche in the massive rock. This serves as
a quiet prelude to the grandest spectacle of the Marble Mountains: Huyen Khong
Cave.
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Quan Am - Bodhisattva of Compassion
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It
is a large natural cave accessed by descending a fight of 20 stone steps. Four sentinels
in vivid and vibrant colours guard the entrance.
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The Sentinels
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Inside the cave, the light
dims, the air cools, sunlight pours in from an opening above. The atmosphere is
ethereal. The irreverent mind can be pardoned if it conjures up a Bollywood
film set. As the eyes adjust to the mystical light, we see the main idol
perched high. He is Shakyamuni Buddha with the iconic coiled curls gazing down
benevolently at us.
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| Huyen Khong Cave |
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Shakyamuni and Ksitigarbha
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The breath stills as we take in the scene. Below him sits the
altar of Kṣitigarbha Bodhisattva. There are many other smaller altars and
shrines inside the cave. And a great bronze bell. Sunlight streams in through
many crevices in the ceiling casting dramatic shadows turning the cavern into a
photographer’s paradise. I found myself wishing for more time to explore from
different angles and perspectives. It is humbling to remember that during the
war, the cave served as a secret field hospital to tend to the wounded
soldiers.
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| The Bronze Bell |
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| The Open Roof of the Cavern |
The
holiest site on the mountain is the Tam Thai Pagoda.
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Tam Thai Pagoda
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Historical records say
that the pagoda was originally built in 1630. Over the years, it was destroyed,
reconstructed and restored, the last as recently as 1995. I entered the pagoda trough
a side gate and missed the three-door entrance (Tam Quan), an architectural
element of Mahayana Buddhism that is embedded in the very fabric of Vietnamese
life. The muted elegance of the pagoda is quite a contrast to the grandeur of
Huyen Khong shrine.
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Guardian Animals
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The pièce de résistance of the courtyard is a statue of
Maitreya Buddha, whose infectious laughter radiates happiness. Inside the
shrine, photography is forbidden, allowing visitors to fully immerse themselves
in the scent of the incense and the colours of lacquered wood, and gaze in
wonder at the gilded icons of the Amitabha trinity. Tam Thai Pagoda leaves one aesthetically
and spiritually satisfied.
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| Maitreya |
There
are many small caves, shrines and altars on the mountain, but in the absence of
clear trails or signage, some are discovered only serendipitously. Either by
design or accident, this is a perfect metaphor for life itself.
Marble
Mountain will mean different things to the different individuals – the seeker,
the photographer, the fitness enthusiast or the curious traveller. Ultimately,
it is our own effort and attention that elevates the mundane marble into
something monumental.
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