Banganga Parikrama

Once upon a time the denizens of Bombay depended on tanks and wells for their daily requirement of water. The advent of piped water from Vihar and Tulsi lakes changed that and rendered the tanks redundant, but Banganga, one of the ten tanks, still survives and is today an iconic water body, drawing exceptionally curious tourists and gawkers. The origin of Banganga is shrouded in mythology and the popular folklore is that Lakshmana shot an arrow and brought the River Ganges to quench his elder brother’s thirst, while they were camping here. Another myth suggests that this land was reclaimed from sea by the Sage Parashurama. But a more pertinent point of historical interest is that the precinct of Banganga is the oldest continuously inhabited quarter of Bombay.

The access to Banganga is through the cross lane that branches off from Walkeshwar Road and then down the flight of steps through the Jabreshwar Galli, so named because it was acquired forcibly (jabardasti) ; an apocryphal but amusing anecdote narrated by our enthusiastic guide. But before the water tank can be espied, there is the Jabreshwar temple with its arresting Nagara style Shikhar. The first sighting of Banganga can be breathtaking depending on the time of the day, but the dark green water is a clear sign of eutrophication; nevertheless it makes for pretty pictures. Flights of steps lead down to the rectangular tank through all four sides. Pairs of tall brick and mortar deepastambhas (lampposts) mark out the several doorways to the steps leading down to the water. The geometry of steps is a visual delight for photo buffs. The sun was low on the horizon and cast long shadows over the green water.

All around scores of skyscrapers soar skywards and catch the sunlight. Below in the shadow, around the periphery of the tank, men and women go about their errands at a distinctly unhurried pace. The contrast between the two worlds is too stark not to be noticed. Fat ducks glide about lazily in the water, while young men sit on the steps and gaze. Time seems to stand still at Banganga

Banganga is a very lived-in place and hence not particularly tidy and clean. Numerous shrines and temples devoted to a plethora of deities dot the perimeter of the tank. We hopped in and out of many and I lost count. The temples aren’t architecturally striking; most are recently renovated concrete structures. Islamic style cupolas grace many of the temples. Some interiors are an amalgam of the Peshwa and the Gujarati styles; others are pure kitsch. It is an exotic cocktail of the sublime and the ridiculous. Among other notable buildings are the Mutts of the Gowd Saraswat Brahmin community, who have been at the forefront in preserving the heritage status of Banganga. 

The sun had already set as we peeped into the large Hindu cemetery, which has recently switched from wood to gas. It was eerily dark as we entered another interesting burial ground, to look at the Samadhis of Hindu Sadhus. I could do nothing other than aim and shoot randomly; but I resolved to come here again. Visiting a sweet factory (Mishtan Bhandar) after that was incongruous, but that is how life continues to roll in Banganga. The Gods and the Dead, both live in Banganga.

The ~3 hour long Parikrama was organized by Khaki Tours (@Khaki_Tours). There were 203 participants in 4 groups.