Nine Reasons for Nathdwara

Jai Shri Krishna

This account is directed towards the first time / casual visitor. Ardent devotees may stop here.

There are nine reasons why you must visit Nathdwara temple, at least once in your lifetime.

1) It is the most proletarian major Hindu temple (actually called a Haveli) I have seen, with the exception of Guruvayur (reason why I like both). There are no paid queues. In fact, there is no queue at all, as I will explain shortly. Announcements over the PA system and a plethora of notice make it abundantly clear that there are no “VIP Darshans” and inform visitors not to pay anything to anybody for facilitating. This is not an empty boast and I vouch for it after having spent 8 hours in 2 visits spread over 2 years. This azaadi from Pandas is something to be cherished. 

2) The viewing time in the Haveli is limited; 8 times (7 in winter) for durations of 15-45 minutes only. Thus from dawn to dusk, the shrine is open only for about 4 hours spread over 8 installments. This heightens both interest and anxiety.

3) Each time the deity in black marble is “supposed” to be attired differently (like in Guruvayur). So you would want to linger around for one more viewing and yet another. Ardent pilgrims have all 8 darshans of the day.

4) Now for the most compelling reason. As mentioned before there is no queuing system and this makes for an intensely exciting experience. People start massing up before the silver paneled door; the lucky few in the front squat on the steps in front of the door. The sound of Nagara is the cue for people to get up and start jostling. When the doors are flung open, there is a race towards the viewing platform. It is quite a sight to savour.  This exciting entry process gets repeated 8 times during the day. 

5) Unlike most other temples (including Guruvayur), the viewing of the deity is not a mere fleeting glimpse. Once on the viewing platform, you can park yourself like Mount Govardhan and if you can withstand the crush, you can stay put for the entire duration. This explains why people race when the doors open. The viewing platform is built like a ramp with tiers and can easily accommodate couple of hundreds. Surprisingly, the view from the back is the best.

6) The atmosphere on the viewing platform is electric with raucous cries of praise to the deity. Strangely enough “Krishna” is never uttered even once. The various appellations are Vallabhadeesh, Kanhaiyalal, Banke Bihari, Shree Nath Baba and my personal favourite Sanwaliya Seth. This adulation of Krishna as a hero of the masses, not unlike a political, sports or film hero, is what distinguishes this from other temples.

7) Now for some rules that are rather strictly enforced – no camera, no mobile, no bags. Cloak rooms are provided for all these. You are also expected to take off your socks and leather belt, though these are not checked by the security guards. I saw some people also particular about not taking leather wallets and watches with leather straps. So yet another azaadi, from selfie!  

8) Nathdwara is the seat of one of Hinduism’s many schools of philosophy – Vallabhacharya’s Shuddhadvaita (Pure Non-Dualism). There is lot to observe and see, among them the grind mills in pure gold and silver for grinding saffron and camphor. 

9) Once out of the temple, it can be quite a challenge to make your way back to the parking lot through the labyrinth of pols. 

Jai Shri Krishna