Chowpatty Chat

Our walk conducted by Khaki Tours starts opposite Cafe Ideal, pondering over these curious concrete stumps, remnants of the first escalator to be installed in a public place in India. Installed in 1970s, the escalator would often malfunction due to incursion of beach sand into the machinery. It was dismantled in August 2013. 

Next we enter the Morvi Lane to look at some of the art deco buildings formerly owned by the rulers of the princely state of Morvi in Saurashtra. 

Back on the main road, we pause in front of the large display window of Wagh Sculptors. This over 100 years old studio has seen three generations of the Wagh family, moulding and chiseling busts of national icons like Gandhi, Nehru, Ambedkar and many others.

Located adjacent is another legendary institution, Dr Purandare Maternity Hospital, which gave birth to many luminaries including Sunil Gavaskar. Dr N A Purandare was a pioneer in obstetrics and Gynecology and has a surgical procedure named after him. His descendants have made this a family profession and are flying the flag high. 

This exquisite façade of the 125 year old Ratnakar Palace is a nice photogenic interlude. 

Next we step into Paramount Restaurant, not for food, but to ogle at Marilyn Monroe on vintage posters of Coca Cola and the quintessential furniture of an Irani Café. And the Gola colours that can make a rainbow blush. 

Our next stop is the country’s oldest Jawahar Bal Bhavan, where there are interesting curiosities, both at the entrance and in the adjoining garden. 

Continuing further down the road, we halt to admire the facades of two iconic institutions – KaivalyaDhama, one of the oldest schools of Yoga and Taraporevala Aquarium, the oldest aquarium of India. 

Our last stop on this stretch is to pay homage to the policemen martyred in the 26/11 terrorist attack. 

Crossing over to retrace our steps along the promenade we see these Egyptian styled columns marking the gateway to the jetty of yesteryears. 

Until recently only Hindus were allowed entry into Pransukhlal Mafatlal Hindu Swimming Bath and Boat Club, born out of ire at being denied access to pools which were exclusive for Europeans.

And the inscription on this stone lamp post reminds us that Marine Drive was formerly known as Kennedy Sea Face, after Sir Michael Kavanagh Kennedy, an engineer who served as Secretary to the Government of Bombay in the Public Works and Railway Departments. Marine Drive will celebrate its centenary in 2020. 

As we walk on we mull over the story of Shivkar Bapuji Talpade, who is believed to have built and flown an unmanned aeroplane in 1895 on the Chowpatty sands, eight years before the Wright Brothers. If indeed true, not a shred of proof exists of this historic feat. 

And another little curiosity: Is this the only named footpath in the world? 

We are now at one of the most hallowed spots on this walk; where Lokmanya Tilak was cremated on 1^st August 1920. Over 2 lakh people attended his funeral; the population of Bombay was a mere 12 lakhs then. In a fitting tribute the crowds return in such large numbers every year to immerse the Ganapati idols, at the end of the annual 10-day festival that was started by him to raise the political consciousness of the common people. 

Shortly thereafter the walk comes to an end at yet another revered spot, where Tukaram Omble courageously apprehended the terrorist Ajmal Kasab and sacrificed his life. 

Chowpatty (Chow + Patty) means four water channels that drain into the sea. Today the word has become a generic term for any spot near a waterbody where people gather to eat a snack and have fun.