Delightful Divar

On a recent visit to Goa, being non-conformist travelers, we avoided the beaches like the plague and headed to Divar, a tiny island in river Mandovi.  Divar is accessed by ferry from the jetty near the Viceroy’s Arch in Old Goa. The government operated ferry is free; cars pay a princely sum, of hold your breath, seven Rupees! Ferries criss-cross the river every 30 minutes and the crossing takes barely 10 minutes. Rooster, the icon of Portuguese rule in Goa, and gawking men, the icon of modern India welcomed us to Divar.

We drove through rain soaked paddy fields and soon pretty, picturesque villas like these delighted our eyes.

The pièce de résistance on the island is the Church of Our Lady of Compassion, dating back to early 1700s and located on a hillock with a panoramic view of the Mandovi river. There is a curious story about the church bell. It was originally donated by the captain of a sinking ship, following a vow. But since the windows of the houses nearby shattered every time the bell was struck, it was swapped with the bell from Se Cathedral across the river. Adjoining the church is a cemetery. 

Lagoons and mangroves dot the island making it an excellent spot for birding.

Konkan Railway traverses the island and the whistle of a passing train evoked memories of Pather Panchali.

We spent two exhilarating hours on the island without encountering a single tourist. But soon it was time to bid good bye, for hunger and heritage churches on the mainland beckoned us.

Next time you are in Goa, do pack Divar into your itinerary. It will enchant you in many ways.