The Church that Opens only Once in a Year

Inside SEEPZ, the customs-bonded electronics export processing zone, in the suburb of Marol, there lies a 16^th C church, in total ruins. Open to the sky, its high walls are held together by roots of tamarind trees. 500-year-old Baobab trees grow in the courtyard of the church.

But once in a year, on the second Sunday of May, the church springs to life as a couple of thousand devotees congregate to celebrate mass. Today was that day and I was there to experience a surreal celebration.

Dressed in their Sunday best, the milling crowd carefully pick their way through stone slabs that were once used as seats, while steadfastly ignoring notices that proclaim – Please stay away, Dangerous Structure – which are pinned all over the crumbling walls. Glittering multicoloured confetti is strung everywhere. The statue of St John the Baptist has been specially brought for the mass from their regular church. Mumbai’s Bishop was there to celebrate Eucharist and bless the devotees.

Mass over, a live band kicks up and soon a small group of people are shaking their leg. The mood has turned from solemn to festive. Cakes and cold drinks are served to all. Almost everyone is taking pictures to record this once in a blue moon event.

The Condita Church, as it was then known, was built in 1579 by a Portuguese Jesuit priest, Manuel Gomes. In 1840 the church was abandoned following the outbreak of an unknown epidemic. The statues, some panels and parts of the altar were transferred to a new church nearby.  But an annual Mass continued to be held in the old church every May. This practice was discontinued in 1973 when MIDC acquired large tracts of land around the church to build SEEPZ. For three decades the church withered in neglect and was overrun by vegetation. Following many representations, the church was reopened for the annual mass in 2005.