AN
APPRECIATION OF ALMATY’S ARCHITECTURE
Many
qualities define a city. People and food spring to mind first. Walkability,
cleanliness, and air quality also shape the experience, for both residents and
visitors. But for me, buildings and their architecture trump everything else.
This
post is a layperson’s appreciation of Almaty’s diverse architectural styles. I
am no expert — my comfort zone begins and ends with Gothic and Baroque, and I
can’t always tell classical from neo-classical, or modernist from
post-modernist. Almaty adds to the confusion with Leninist and Stalinist
influences (who knew they dabbled in architecture?). If some jargon creeps in,
blame my research, not my training. My only aim is to share delight and provoke
curiosity.
So,
here are the buildings that I saw, admired and photographed during my
walkabouts in Almaty, in no particular order.
OPERA
HOUSE
Constructed
between 1936 and 1941, it is regarded as a fusion of Stalinist and Italian
Neoclassical styles with Kazakh elements sprinkled liberally. But it still
manages to look pretty, especially with the fountains in front. The building is
named after Abay, the renowned Kazakh poet and composer.
ACADEMY OF SCIENCES
I came across this building suddenly late in the evening and immediately felt intimidated. If the scale and proportions are designed to project power it works well – excellent example of Stalinist architecture. The daylight next morning soothed the contours. There is an interesting curiosity in the campus – the Zodiac fountain based on the Chinese Calendar.
KBTU BUILDING
CENTRAL
STATE MUSEUM
The
building that houses the state museum is considered as an example of Soviet
Modernism. The blue-green central dome gives it a distinct Islamic look. Built
in 1985, it is regarded as one of the finest buildings in Almaty.
KAZAKH-GERMAN
UNIVERSITY (DKU)
Some
of the best architectures of Almaty are tucked away inside the back lanes. This
curvilinear building came as a relief to the eyes after a heavy dose of severe straight
lines.
GOLOVIZIN
TRADE HOUSE
This
has to be the biggest secret I discovered during my walk. It took me a lot of drilling
on the Internet to learn that this richly ornamented mansion was probably built
in 1908 and was used by Titus Golovizin, a master shoemaker.
DOSTYK
HOTEL
The
first 5-star hotel in Kazakhstan, Dostyk (Kazakh word for Friendship) Hotel used
to host high-ranking communist party officials in its earlier avatar. It is a
historically important, and legally protected monument. Built in 1983, it has
been extensively reconstructed while retaining the historic exterior.
HOTEL
KAZAKHSTAN
This
iconic 102-meter-tall building is the 3rd tallest building in Almaty and
the 8th tallest in the country as a whole. It is featured on the 5000
Tenge banknote. The 26 floors are capped by a crown.
KAZAKHMYS
CORPORATE BUILDING
This
building is bold and contemporary, none of the isms can define its style. The
long row of tall columns is hypnotising. Kazakhmys is the largest copper
producer in the country.
HOUSE
OF DESIGN
A
company that specialises in upmarket architectural and interior design
ARMAN
CINEMA
Built
in 1967, this building is noteworthy for the Soviet-era murals on its walls. I
want to kick myself for missing out on the best angle.
CHILDREN’S
REPUBLIC PALACE
Built
in 1983, this is a Soviet-era institution intended to provide after school
education to the children. With its quaint dome and incongruous tower in the
background, it makes for a strange picture.
This brought back memories from my own visit to Almaty earlier this year..one of my absolute favourite was the opera building
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