AN APPRECIATION OF ALMATY’S ARCHITECTURE

Many qualities define a city. People and food spring to mind first. Walkability, cleanliness, and air quality also shape the experience, for both residents and visitors. But for me, buildings and their architecture trump everything else.

This post is a layperson’s appreciation of Almaty’s diverse architectural styles. I am no expert — my comfort zone begins and ends with Gothic and Baroque, and I can’t always tell classical from neo-classical, or modernist from post-modernist. Almaty adds to the confusion with Leninist and Stalinist influences (who knew they dabbled in architecture?). If some jargon creeps in, blame my research, not my training. My only aim is to share delight and provoke curiosity.

So, here are the buildings that I saw, admired and photographed during my walkabouts in Almaty, in no particular order. 


OPERA HOUSE 


Constructed between 1936 and 1941, it is regarded as a fusion of Stalinist and Italian Neoclassical styles with Kazakh elements sprinkled liberally. But it still manages to look pretty, especially with the fountains in front. The building is named after Abay, the renowned Kazakh poet and composer. 


ACADEMY OF SCIENCES

I came across this building suddenly late in the evening and immediately felt intimidated. If the scale and proportions are designed to project power it works well – excellent example of Stalinist architecture. The daylight next morning soothed the contours. There is an interesting curiosity in the campus – the Zodiac fountain based on the Chinese Calendar. 


KBTU BUILDING



Yet another monumental Soviet-style building with imposing columns. It took 20 years to build, because of WW-II interruption. The building housed the Government of the Kazakh SSR and later the KGB. Kazakhstan’s Declaration of Independence was signed here in December 1991. Today, an interesting JV – Kazakh-British Technical University – uses the historic monument. 


CENTRAL STATE MUSEUM



The building that houses the state museum is considered as an example of Soviet Modernism. The blue-green central dome gives it a distinct Islamic look. Built in 1985, it is regarded as one of the finest buildings in Almaty.


KAZAKH-GERMAN UNIVERSITY (DKU)


Some of the best architectures of Almaty are tucked away inside the back lanes. This curvilinear building came as a relief to the eyes after a heavy dose of severe straight lines.


GOLOVIZIN TRADE HOUSE


This has to be the biggest secret I discovered during my walk. It took me a lot of drilling on the Internet to learn that this richly ornamented mansion was probably built in 1908 and was used by Titus Golovizin, a master shoemaker.

 

DOSTYK HOTEL


The first 5-star hotel in Kazakhstan, Dostyk (Kazakh word for Friendship) Hotel used to host high-ranking communist party officials in its earlier avatar. It is a historically important, and legally protected monument. Built in 1983, it has been extensively reconstructed while retaining the historic exterior.


HOTEL KAZAKHSTAN


This iconic 102-meter-tall building is the 3rd tallest building in Almaty and the 8th tallest in the country as a whole. It is featured on the 5000 Tenge banknote. The 26 floors are capped by a crown.  


KAZAKHMYS CORPORATE BUILDING


This building is bold and contemporary, none of the isms can define its style. The long row of tall columns is hypnotising. Kazakhmys is the largest copper producer in the country. 


HOUSE OF DESIGN


A company that specialises in upmarket architectural and interior design


ARMAN CINEMA



Built in 1967, this building is noteworthy for the Soviet-era murals on its walls. I want to kick myself for missing out on the best angle.


CHILDREN’S REPUBLIC PALACE


Built in 1983, this is a Soviet-era institution intended to provide after school education to the children. With its quaint dome and incongruous tower in the background, it makes for a strange picture. 


Comments

  1. This brought back memories from my own visit to Almaty earlier this year..one of my absolute favourite was the opera building

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