Sunrise Over Mount Bromo

 

The alarm goes off at 0115. I jump out of my bed instantly. At 0200, all 20 of us are in the hotel lobby ready to get into the Toyota Land Cruisers. We hit the road at 0205.

It is Anant Chaturdashi night, chilly at 14C. I am wearing a puffer jacket and a beanie. Also, a gaiter is adorning my neck. I am carrying a small backpack with my Nikon DSLR, a small bottle of water, an energy bar and a N-95 mask.

There are dozens of vehicles on the road, and 45 minutes later we are racing each other, kicking up clouds of dust. The white stuff on the road is volcanic ash. Time to roll up the gaiter and protect my mouth and nose. The beanie is already covering my ears.

0320. We are stuck in a traffic jam on the road to the highest viewpoint. Nothing moves for 40 minutes. Then news trickles down about some “accident” at the top. Everyone gets out of their vehicles. Some start trekking up, others wind their way down. There are 2 notable viewing points on the hilltop at different altitudes.

The moonlit, star-spangled sky is spectacular. I can’t believe that so many stars would turn up in this impromptu photograph on iPhone.

But my mind would be occupied with earthier matters soon. We are walking in pitch dark between cars parked on the roads. Bikes thread their way up through us with their blinding lights. And then we turn off the road to reach the viewpoint. The next 10-15 minutes were hell. I walked like a zombie trusting my instinct more than my legs. It is important to bring a torch, preferably a headlamp to face an unexpected scenario like this.

It is a huge relief to be on the small uneven plateau, a smallish crowd milling around me. Next on the agenda is to secure a vantage position. The solution is to procure a plastic mat, spreading it on the ground and plonking down on it. Real Estate is at a premium here. A woman quotes 50,000 Rupiah for the mat, before coming down to 20K. It comfortably seats three. As soon, as we parked ourselves on the mat, 3 Chinese girls took up positions immediately in front of us. They also bought a blanket from the roaming vendor for 50K. I am afraid their pink monkey caps will intrude into my camera frame.

Once ensconced on the mat, my next task is to prepare myself for taking pictures non-stop for the next one hour or so. The light, the colour, the temperature - keep changing every minute - as nature stages her best uncoordinated performance of an opera. Even those who have taken a vow to keep the phones firmly in their pockets will fight a losing battle against their resolution.

0431. A crimson light streaks across the horizon heralding the arrival of His Majesty.

0451. The mist in the valley begins to swirl as the earth warms up. Mount Semeru decides to test his canon.

The air is getting warmer and lighter with anticipation. A new scene unfolds every minute.

0513. His Majesty takes a sneak preview of the earth. The Chinese girl rises giving me this memorable silhouette.

0514 His Majesty decides he can now stage an entry.

0516 The crowd rises to greet His Majesty.

0518 Mount Semeru fires his salute to His Majesty, who acknowledges by painting the smoke red.

As the Sun, still red, marches up the sky, the surrounding slopes glow in reciprocating passion.

The grand spectacle over, we mortals must now descend and prepare for a more gruelling encounter with Mount Bromo — this time, at close quarters.

Notes

Mount Semeru (also known as Maha Meru) is the massive, towering stratovolcano commanding the background of the entire panorama. It is the highest peak (3676 m) on Java Island and is highly active, frequently puffing out distinctive plumes of ash and smoke every 10 to 20 minutes. Mount Batok is the highly symmetrical, beautifully ribbed cone sitting directly in the foreground next to Bromo. It is an inactive volcano and is often covered in patches of green vegetation. Mount Bromo sits between Batok and Semeru and is recognisable by the thick white sulfurous smoke billowing from its crater.

The two notable viewpoints are Penanjakan 1 at 2770 m and King Kong Hill (aka Penanjakan 2) at around 2600 m.