Historic Haldighati

My trip down history to Haldighati began after an extremely chaotic morning at the Nathdwara temple. Twenty odd minutes later we were in the village of Khamnore. On either side lay the plain of Rakt Talai that was covered in blood on that fateful day of 21^st June 1576, when Rajputs and Mughals fought a historic one-day battle. Khamnore is now a modern village and there are no signs to commemorate the battle; it is only the oral history that lives on. 

A short climb later we were in the Haldighati pass that has lent its name to the famous battle. We stopped the car and alighted to examine the earth; indeed there were patches in turmeric-yellow. It was this pass that deterred the elephants of the Mughal army from crossing over and so the battle was fought in the plain of Khamnore. 

A little ahead of the Haldighati pass is a small cave, where Maharana Pratap is believed to have met with his generals and chalked out the Guerrilla tactic for the battle. A Shivling under a banyan tree marks that location today. Next along the road is the memorial for Chetak, the courageous and loyal horse that is synonymous with Maharana Pratap and Haldighati. The memorial is constructed at the spot, where the injured horse is believed to have breathed its last after leaping over a stream and taking its master to safety away from the battle. 

And then finally the Museum that lovingly recreates the life of Maharana Pratap and the Battle of Haldighati through models, paintings and an AV show. When you pay a small fee for a guided tour of the museum, please remember it is the single handed passion of Mohan Shrimali, a farmer turned teacher; it is not government-funded. The museum also has shops selling souvenirs and a food court. 

Though the battle at Haldighati lasted merely a day, and was indecisive, the casualties were humongous; some say as many as 20,000 lives were lost. The battle was not fought for land or wealth, but for self-esteem and pride. Maharana Pratap’s army was led by a Muslim General and Akbar’s army by a Hindu General.  It was the first time Guerrilla tactic was employed.  The mystique and aura of Rajput valour was firmly established around this battle and continues to live on in our psyche. And of course, there is the nobility of Chetak. Every Indian, who is proud of our history and culture, ought to make a visit to Haldighati and relive this glorious past.