Nanded – A Primer on Sikh History

Guru Gobind Singh, the valorous 10^th Sikh Guru, who lived between 1666 and 1708, deserves to be celebrated as a pan-Indian hero. In order to appreciate his accomplishments and cherish his memory, a visit to Nanded is highly recommended, especially for the youth, irrespective of their religion. Here in Nanded, where the Guru breathed his last on 7^th October 1708, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the munificent patron of Sikhs, arranged to build a Gurudwara at the site where the Guru was cremated. It took 5 years in making between 1832 and 1837 and is one the 5 Takhts (seats of power) of Sikhism. It is an exquisite marble structure along the lines of the Golden Temple of Amritsar and has a gold plated cupola. The inner walls have intricate design and are covered in gold plated copper. The inner chamber has 2 parts, housing the holy book, Granth Sahib and the weapons respectively.

Every evening around 7, there is a ceremonial display of some of the weapons, among them the Kirpan and spear of Guru Gobind Singh and the swords of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. It is a hair-raising ritual and the plaintive voice that describes their ownership followed by a war cry is guaranteed to bring goose pimples. And every morning the weapon room is thrown open to the faithful for paying obeisance. The collection on display includes bow and arrow, swords, spears, knives and even a rifle. It is quite a stunning sight to be viewed from three different angles.

Guru Gobind Singh gave the name of Abchal Nagar (The Eternal City) to Nanded and Takht Sachkhand Abchalnagar Sahib, as the Gurudwara is officially known is a sprawling complex with plenty of space to walk about and to sit quietly and contemplate on the sweet strains of Gurbani and Shabad Kirtan that goes on almost round the clock. After sunset, the place comes alive with fountains and tasteful lights. And on most evenings there is a laser show on Sikh history at the nearby Gobind Bagh. The narration of the life and works of the ten Sikh Gurus is in Punjabi, but not too difficult to comprehend for those who know Hindi.

The wholesome way to experience Abchalnagar Sahib and observe all the rituals and ceremonies is to stay at least for a day and a night in Sachkhand Complex within the premises of the Gurudwara. Rooms are large, clean, air-conditioned and available for Rs 500 per 24 hours; reservations can be made online 15 days in advance. The basic rule to be observed inside the complex is to cover the head all times in public and not to open the umbrella. Also don’t forget to carry your own towel and soap. Simple food is served round the clock at the Langar that can seat several hundred at a time.

Nanded is a town replete with Sikh history. There are a dozen Gurudwaras at varying distances of 1-40 kms from Abchalnagar Sahib. A bus starting from Abchalnagar Sahib at 9 takes pilgrims on a tour of all the Gurudwaras for Rs 100. It takes 6-7 hours, and for those who cannot spare that much time, at least Banda Ghat Sahib and Nagina Ghat Sahib, two beautiful Gurudwaras on the bank of River Godavari are must-sees. Both these Gurudwaras have significant historical association with Guru Gobind Singh.

Attached to the Banda Ghat Sahib Gurudwara, is an exhibition on Sikh history. There are more than 100 paintings and viewing them all at leisure will require at least an hour. Some of the paintings and their blood-curdling descriptions graphically narrate the unspeakable brutalities inflicted by the Moghuls on the Sikh Gurus and their followers.

I urge all those wanting a primer on Sikh history to visit Nanded; it is a weekend getaway from Mumbai and Hyderabad. Nanded is also directly connected to Amritsar and Delhi by Sachkhand Express. You will return a proud Indian.