A Decade of Travel - 5

2015 – Sanchi and Bhimbetka

Bhopal is a wonderful city of lakes, mosques and museums. Straddling across the city are two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These two sites were the reason why I flew to Bhopal in April 2015.

4^th April

I began the day by visiting the Sanchi Stupa, 50 kms to the North. It was a great morning for outdoor photography. Glorious sunshine, immaculate blue sky, a pleasant breeze. The Great Stupa at Sanchi was commissioned in 3^rd C B.C. by Emperor Ashoka to house Buddha’s relics. When I browse through the 135 photographs, I realise that I have covered the Great Stupa from every conceivable angle. I remember having the entire site for myself, other than the guards and caretakers. The Stupa is surrounded by lush green lawns that are superbly maintained. ASI has done a great job of labelling everything and there are plenty of signage boards. I have visited many ASI sites in the last 15 years and Sanchi is gold standard.

After Sanchi, there was a bonus – Udaigiri Caves – 10 kms further up. These caves date back to Gupta period (4^th C). There are 20 caves and some of them have large, powerful sculptures, like Varaha Avatar or reclining Vishnu (Ananthashayana). The latter is so long that it is difficult to capture in 35 mm. There is also a curious Shiva Lingam with a face carved on it (Ekamukha Linga). Some of the caves were locked and an indifferent caretaker came along to open them up for viewing. Udaigiri Caves are important because the sculptures there are the earliest available examples of Hindu iconography.

Bhimbetka is 55 kms to the south of Bhopal, 2 ½ hours drive from Sanchi. After the profusion of art and architecture at Sanchi and Udaigiri, I was underwhelmed by the rock drawings of Bhimbetka. It took tremendous mental strength to grasp that the art I am staring at is 12000 years old. I would advise all discerning travelers not to club Sanchi and Bhimbetka on the same day or even in the same trip. They need to be approached with entirely different eyes. The information panels at Bhimbetka are straight out of the top drawer. A stone path leads you from rock to rock and you need to be patient to see the iconic Boar Rock at the very end.

After this sensory overload, there was an icing on the cake, on the way back to Bhopal. The tallest Shiva Lingam in an unfinished 10^th C temple by Raja Bhoj.

It was an exhausting but thoroughly rewarding day.